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Art

Chiuri’s inspiration for Dior Spring 2019 Couture

31 marzo, 2019

Since Maria Grazia Chiuri is on the Creative Direction for Dior, the fashion house has reached a new level. This time circus took over the runway, see the key references here.

There were dancers holding onto each other to form a dynamic arc: the gate of the runway, a circus parade, where models wore modern looks that ensorcelled the audience.

As mentioned in the official Dior website, the inspiration was born from varied references: photography (Cindy Sherman), the house’s history -is not the first time the circus concept spreads the Dior runway-, paintings, and literature.

Entering the chaotic creative process drove by Maria Grazia Chiuri, I will focus on pictorial art as a source of inspiration and its interpretation on the show.

Pierrot and Columbine

The close-fitting bonnets is a key styling choice for a clean and homogeneous fashion, and according to Stephen Jones, who created these accessories, the piece comes from the theatrical representations of Pierrot and Columbine from the XVI century. Yet, it can be linked to Jean Cocteau’s drawings for ‘Maison de santé’, the series of self-portraits he made during an opium rehab.

Photo: Dior.com
Pierrot et Colombine, ou Les Cantomines de Xavier Privas
Jean Cocteau drawing from ‘Maison Santé’

Pablo Picasso

Picasso’s Rose Period was one of the references for the color palette in this season.

During that period the Spanish painter depicted a wide range of circus scenes such as ‘Seated Harlequin’, ‘Acrobate et jeune Arlequin’, and ‘Theatre Curtain for Parade’ the one chosen to impress the sparkle of the happening into the clothes through hand-sequined skirts, dresses, and booties with stars.

Pablo Picasso, 1905, Acrobate et jeune Arlequin (Acrobat and Young Harlequin)
Photo: Dior.com
Pablo Picasso, 1901, Seated Harlequin. Met Museum
Photo: Dior.com
Pablo Picasso, 1931, Theatre Curtain for Parade

Acrobatics in Fashion

The parade took life with the performance of acrobats from Mimbre “a female-led company creating nuanced, breathtaking and highly skilled acrobatic theatre”, as they describe themselves. Not a casual coincidence, girls giving support to each other to perform something bigger, a message that Chiuri has been expressing since the now famous statement “We should all be feminists” in Spring 2017 Ready-to-wear, her very debut for the Maison.

Again the message of Maria Grazia Chiuri was clear and loud as elegant and beautiful, the clown projected in the models as androgynous as them is the idea of the director’s modernity where gender and age no longer matter, instead, they flow for free expression and empowerment.

What others sources of inspiration did you spot in Dior Spring 2019 Couture? Let me know in the comments!

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